Do you love watching the sunrise over water? Moreover, having the joy of seeing it set over water on the same day? And without being on a boat! Then this might be the journey for you. Joyce and Halewijn are the hosts of Jade Sea Journeys and it was here, at Lobolo Camp, situated 11 kilometres from Eliye Airstrip on the Western shore of Lake Turkana. Lake Turkana, previously referred as Lake Rudolf, and only renamed in 1975, is the biggest permanent desert lake in the world, with a shoreline longer than Kenya’s coast with an average width of 30 kilometres. It is also the most saline of Africa’s large lakes. At Lobolo Camp, there is a choice of six tents you can stay in, all made from metal poles, and so nothing is destroyed from the forests surrounding them. All the tents have relaxing views looking out towards the lake, birds and possibly passing camels.

In amongst the doum palms, close to the shore, Lobolo Springs comes bubbling out and flowing into Lake Turkana. Other than a few springs, the Lake is the only permanent source of water in the area. Local people still have access to the water, and though being crystal clear, it is purified further to attain a more healthy mineral balance for guests of Lobolo Lodge. Joyce and Halewijn tend to this oasis and forest as if it were one of their children, making sure that everything that drops from the palms is left lying, able to return to the earth and feed it for future generations. If you are a beachcomber wandering the shore, you will find the area is rich in geodes, meteorites and semi-precious stones such as amethysts and garnets.

There are three National Parks, Sibiloi, Central Island and South Island on Lake Turkana, and we departed from Lobolo Camp in mid-afternoon, after the water had calmed, to Central Island, which is five square kilometres in area - established in 1983. The island is actually a dormant volcano with at least ten smaller and larger craters, both above water and submerged. So in fact, though it seemed as if we were cruising around separate islands, these were merely satellite outcrops, and all part of the same island. Occasionally, sulphurous steam and smoke is emitted from the volcanic vents, creating a ghostly luminous glow at night.

At Central Island, hundreds of Pink-backed Pelicans, Great and Long Tailed Cormorants were nesting on the islands surrounding Central Island, but we also saw Little Egrets, Egyptian Geese, Kingfishers to name but a few. If you visit between March and May, which is coming up soon, you’ll be able to see European migrants, using the islands as resting spots, as they head north to the Omo River, which they follow. Because of the close proximity of the Omo, you might also see specialty birds such as Skimmers, the Great Black-headed Gull, the Lesser Black-backed Gull, the Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Carmine Bee-eaters and Masked Larks.

If Central Island itself does not appeal to you, and if you prefer a lusher environment, you can follow the birds going back to Europe along the Omo River. Jade Sea Journeys will arrange a five-day, or more, boat journey for you that includes food, accommodation, in their tents, and your Ethiopian visas.

These may look like samosas, but add a bit of soy sauce, and these ‘hot out of the oil’ delicacies quickly turned into Chinese egg rolls! They were a wonderful welcome when we stepped from a 40-minute boat journey, first from Lobolo Camp, and then another hour around Central Island.

Once on Central Island, we were free to have sundowners, fish or just enjoy the view. The lake is noted for being the only known location of a genetically pure species of tilapia. The island is uninhabited, though occasionally visited by fishermen, and Joyce and Halewijn pride themselves on making as little impact on the environment as possible. “Everything we take out there for guests comes back with us.”

Camp beds with mosquito netting had been set-up under the stars, but because of recent rains, most people chose to retire into tents raised after dinner. Sometimes the Turkana area receives rainfall as seldom as once every five years, but this was not one of those times. I decided to brave the elements. How could I pass up the opportunity of listening to lake water lapping gently on the shoreline to lull me to sleep? I received only a light shower that I fended off by pulling one of their cozy sleeping bags over my head. In addition, even though I am a light sleeper, the next thing I knew, it was morning. Clouds broke open to reveal a magnificent sunrise that cast its glow not only on Lake Turkana, but also on one of the crater lakes that we were to discover walking just a few hours later.

In the morning, we took another boat ride, this time merely to save our feet excess work from the trek we were to make to two of the three craters, which are filled with water; lakes within a lake. One is extremely alkaline, and often attracts Lesser Flamingos, while the cliffs surrounding it are nesting sites of the Eurasian Spoonbill.

Lake Turkana, which is Africa’s largest Rift Valley lake, has in the past had a world’s record population of anywhere from 10,000 to 20,000 crocodiles. Halewijn is quick to point out that the numbers of crocodiles are no longer here. I felt honored to see four.

As we looked from the top of one crater to the expanse of the Jade Sea, as it is sometimes known, one of the guests cried out, “This looks like ‘Loch’ Turkana!” If it had not have been for the crocodiles, turtle and warm weather, there was something about the landscape that did resemble remote areas of Scotland.

Meals were a delight, with a variety of meats and local fish. Dinner ended with a flourish with chocolate mousse and liquors. The following day at lunchtime, there was even ice cream! How it stayed frozen on the island, is anyone’s guess…

You cannot see it from Central Island, but on the Eastern shore of the lake is Sibiloi National Park, where you might want to continue with your expedition with Jade Sea Journeys. Established to protect unique prehistoric archeological sites, the Koobi Fora deposits have contributed more to the understanding of paleo-environments than any other site on the African continent. Among the finds have been a set of crocodile jaws over 5 feet long belonging to a 45 foot long prehistoric ancestor of the crocodile, a three million year old giant tortoise shell, and a huge tusked ancestor of the elephant. Today, the animals you’ll find are the very rare Striped Hyena, leopard, lion, hippo, Lesser Kudu, Grant’s Gazelle, crocodiles and a variety of venomous snakes including spitting cobras, black mambas, puff adders and carpet vipers.

A few days in Turkana could easily turn into weeks, as you meander from one sun-drenched site to the next, all the while watching the sun touch one horizon and then another. My idea of heaven!

DEFENDERS OF THE WILDLIFE

The fastest land animal in the world, the cheetah is a marvel of evolution. The cheetah’s slender, long-legged body is built for speed. Cheetahs are tan in color with black spots all over their bodies. They can also be distinguished from other big cats by their smaller size, spotted coats, small heads and ears and distinctive "tear stripes" that stretch from the corner of the eye to the side of the nose.

Fast Facts

Height: 2 ½ -3 feet (.8-.9m) at the shoulder.
Weight: 110-140 lbs (50-64kg).
Top Speed: 70mph (113 km/hr).
Lifespan: 10-12 years.

Diet

Staples: Gazelles, wildebeest calves, impalas and smaller hoofed animals.

Population

In 1900, there were over 100,000 cheetahs across their historic range. Today, an estimated 9,000 to 12,000 cheetahs remain in the wild in Africa. In Iran, there are around 200 cheetahs living in small isolated populations.

CHEETAH SAFARI

Range

Historically cheetahs were found throughout Africa and Asia from South Africa to India. They are now confined to parts of eastern, central and southwestern Africa and a small portion of Iran

Did You Know?

When cheetahs are running, they use their tails to help them steer and turn in the direction they want to go, like the rudder of a boat.

Behavior

Found mostly in open and partially open savannah, cheetahs rely on tall grasses for camouflage when hunting. They are diurnal (more active in the day) animals and hunt mostly during the late morning or early evening. Only half of the chases, which last from 20-60 seconds, are successful. Samburu

Cheetahs knock their prey to the ground and kill with a suffocating bite to the neck. They must eat quickly before they lose the kills to other bigger or more aggressive carnivores.

Cheetahs are also typically solitary animals. While males sometimes live with a small group of brothers from the same litter, females generally raise cubs by themselves for about a year.

Reproduction
Mating Season: Throughout the year.
Gestation: Around 3 months.
Litter size: 2-4 cubs
Cubs are smoky in color with long, woolly hair – called a mantle – running down their backs. This mantle is thought to camouflage cubs in grass, concealing them from predators. Mothers move cubs to new hiding places every few days. At 5-6 weeks, cubs follow the mother and begin eating from their kills.

Threats

The cheetah’s future is uncertain due to a variety of threats. The biggest is habitat loss due to human encroachment. In addition, they often deal with declines in prey and conflicts with humans. There is also high cub mortality due to predation by carnivores like lions and hyenas that are in competition with the cheetah, as well as genetic inbreeding which leads to abnormalities. Maasai Mara

Did You Know?

Unlike other big cats, cheetahs cannot roar. However, they can purr on both inhale and exhale, like domestic cats!

LAKE TURKANA:OUTER LIMITS

Kenya’s North is desert country- hot, parched and broken by volcanic activity, where ancient blackened lava flows and endless thorn trees stretch from horizon to horizon.

Life here is limited to the hardiest species of wildlife, and the seldom seen human culture follows well worn paths beaten by the tracks of nomadic camel trains.

Travelling overland through this country is not easy; roads wind their way through broad hot valleys and over shattered volcanic rocks. Nothing seems more miraculous than to crest the top of a hill and discover a vast inland sea of the brightest shade of Jade, shimmering under the baking sun.

This sight certainly came as a remarkable vision to the Austrian explorers Teleki and Von Hohnel, who reached its shores in 1888, driven on by local legends about a mighty sea that lay beyond the desert Frontier. The same legends spoke of a place surrounded by tribes of giants and of islands that were the realm of monsters and ghosts.

Their incredible discovery – first christened “Lake Rudolf”- amazed geographers around the world. This was the world’s largest permanent desert lake: a 250 km length of blue water in a broken dogleg that lay like a bright scar in the blackened landscape. Its waters were home to springs and geothermal geysers, its islands breeding colonies for thousands of birds and its waters filled with fish, hippos and crocodiles- plenty of them.

The Lake was the world’s largest crocodile colony, with some truly massive specimens.

This land was no new discovery to the many tribes who lived in the area, and for whom this seemingly inhospitable land was a source of life. For tribes such as the Turkana, whose name was eventually given to the lake- this was home.

Many legends still abound about this area, and throughout Kenya the people of this area, especially the Turkana, are regarded as the toughest, most aggressive people on earth. As usual, there is a lot of truth in the legend- and most of the tribes that live around the lake have had to develop a strong survival instinct to prosper on these shores- and the cultures here are some of the most pure and isolated on earth.

Fossil evidence found in the earth around Turkana suggests that humans have survived these conditions for a very long time- and that Turkana may be the true “Cradle Of Mankind”.

With its inaccessibility, harsh conditions, spectacular scenery, wildlife, remarkable cultures and archaeological treasures, Turkana has become a favourite destination with adventure travellers.

Getting to Turkana overland is no mean feat. While it is possible to fly to the Lake in a Chartered aircraft (and indeed flying is recommended for the furthest Northern reaches) it must be said that flying to Turkana somewhat distills the adventure. This is place where the journey is very much part of the destination- and it is only by taking the long difficult road that a real sense of remoteness is gained.

However, the flight itself is quite an experience, taking in wonderful vistas across the Suguta Valley and providing a birds eye view of the Lake itself.

Most visitors make the long trip from Nairobi over a 2 or 3-day period, stopping en route at Maralal, Samburu, or Marsabit. The trip winds through some beautiful country, and travelers invariably encounter Rendille camel trains, and pass by tiny villages and nomadic encampments along the way.

The history and cultures of the North- the Samburu, Pokot, Gabbra, Borana and many more are written upon the soil of this trackless land- and travelling through this area is a great education in itself.

Both the East and West shores of the Lake each offer unique areas of interest.

At the South East tip of the Lake, reached via South Horr, the tiny oasis of Loiyangalani (“the place of the trees”) attracts many travelers to its palm groves, where a constant wind offers relief from the searing heat. There is a well-maintained campsite and basic lodge here. Many safari companies and operators offer truck trips to this area- sometimes combined with a Camel safari further south.

Loiyangalani is a good base for exploring- either by boat to South Island National Park, or by climbing nearby Mount Kulal- a challenging climb which needs to be undertaken with care.

El Molo Bay is home to Kenya’s smallest tribe, the El Molo whose numbers have dwindled through intermarriage and linguistic and cultural absorption into the Turkana and Samburu communities.

One of the last true hunter-gatherer communities, the El Molo are centered on this small bay, which is also a good place to spot crocodiles and birdlife. Outside influence has been slow to reach this distant frontier, and the El Molo, Turkana and other communities along the Lakeshores still live lives dictated by tradition, myth and custom. In many places here, life continues unchanged as it has for centuries.

For the more adventurous, the long road North leads to Sibiloi, a 1600 square km National Park recently accorded World Heritage Status. This park is a real surprise after a long desert journey- there is plenty of open green, grassland- and plenty of game. Zebra, Topi, Giraffe, Ostrich, Hippo and the occasional Lion and Cheetah have all been sighted in the park.

Sibiloi also incorporates Koobi Fora a very important site for Hominid Fossils, famous internationally since Richard Leakey’s discovery of ‘1470’ a 2 million year old skull of Homo Habilis. As interest in visiting this area increases, there is promise of improved visitor facilities and safari options in this area.

For more information click here

Western Turkana is more accessible, via the road North from Kitale to Lodwar and onward to Ferguson’s Gulf and the village of Kalokol. There is a basic lodge here- originally a fishing lodge for those looking to catch prized Nile Perch. About 60 kms further North is beautiful Eliye Springs, home to spring fed oases, large crocodile populations, and many small Turkana villages. There are a few simple lodgings available here.

Just a little further North, the all new Lobolo Camp treads the fine line between roughing it and the more comfortable “easy” tented camps in Kenya’s more accessible Parks and Reserves.

The first permanent tented camp in Turkana, Lobolo is nestled among 100 acres of lush forest, watered by a series of fresh water springs. The camp is owned and managed by Dutchman Halewjin and his Kenyan wife Joyce, who have been running safaris into this region for more than a decade- and have developed a zealous passion for providing efficiency and service in this remote area.

The camp has 6 spacious, spotless tents with spring water showers and specially raised beds to take advantage of cool breezes, and provide views of the sunset over the Lake.

A central mess tent serves up remarkably first class meals, with flame grilled brochettes, fresh salad, and excellent local Nile Perch.

Lobolo is used as a base camp for journeys around the Lake, through their specialized safari company Jade Sea Expeditions.

TURKANA ITINERARY

With excellent boats and guides- trips around the Lake, specialized fishing trips for Nile Perch and many others are possible.

Lobolo caters for those who still want to enjoy the adventure of travelling to this wild frontier, but still appreciate the value of a comfortable bed, a cool shower in the evening, and the occasional unexpected luxury- such as delicious hot samosas with soy sauce served by the campfire.

Overnight fly camps on Central Island National Park can also be arranged. The island is a great place to spend a day exploring. Although only five square kilometers in area, the hills neatly conceal three separate volcanic crater lakes.

A hike around the crater rims is an ideal way to spend the morning or afternoon. Each lake has its own unique ecology- and flamingo, crocodiles and plenty of waterbirds can be seen as you follow the narrow ridges across the islands spine.

One of these small lakes is home to an ancient species of Tilapia- a small freshwater fish- whose existence suggests that the Lake may have once been fed by the Nile.

The outer slopes of this upthrust volcanic cone are breeding colonies for many waterbirds, and a slow drift in a canoe around the island makes for great birdwatching- with plenty of nesting pelican, cormorant, heron and gulls- and hunting raptors including African Fish Eagles, Osprey and even Marsh Harriers, and local rarities such as Skimmers.

The delicate ecological balance of this region is threatened by increasing human population pressure, but the development of tourism- and its economic benefit- may just be the vital ingredient for the preservation for future generations of intrepid travellers.

For those who reach these outer limits today, there is no better way to spend a night than stretched out by a campfire on Central Island, listening to the soft lap of water on the shore as the sunset gives way to a stunning starscape overhead.

Baobab Tree

The baobab is found in the savannas of African, mostly around the equator. It can grow up to 25 meters tall and can live for several thousand years. The baobab is leafless for nine months of the year. If I were to describe the baobab, I would say that it looks like it has been picked out of the ground and stuffed back in upside-down. The trunk would be the tap-root, and the branches the finer capillary roots. The African legend of the baobab is that "the devil plucked up the baobab, thrust its branches into the earth and left its

roots in the air". Another legend describes what happens if you are never satified with what you already have;

"The baobab was among the first trees to appear on the land. Next came the slender, graceful palm tree. When the baobab saw the palm tree, it cried out that it wanted to be taller. Then the beautiful flame tree appeared with its red flower and the baobab was envious for flower blossoms. When the baobab saw the magnificent fig tree, it prayed for fruit as well. The gods became angry with the tree and pulled it up by its roots, then replanted it upside down to keep it quiet."

The baobab looks like this for a reason. In the wet months water is stored in its thick, corky, fire-resistant trunk for the nine dry months ahead.

The baobab's bark, leaves, fruit, and trunk are all used. The bark of the baobab is used for cloth and rope, the leaves for condiments and medicines, while the fruit, called "monkey bread", is eaten. Sometimes people live inside of the huge trunks, and bush-babies live in the crown.

By Carolyne Veke.

Serval Cat

Servals (Felinae serval) have the largest ears and longest legs in relation to the size of their body of any cat. Their fur is yellow, gold to reddish with black spots that often merge to form stripes on the neck and back. Their ears have horizontal stripes. The stomach is usually lighter color than the rest of the body. They have a long neck and a small head.

Servals live in well-watered grasslands of Africa(Maasai Mara). Their habitat overlaps with the caracal who usually preys on larger animals. The serval cat mainly eats hares, ground squirrels, hyraxes, and mole rats, but will also prey on frogs, snakes, lizards, insects, fish, and birds. They listen for their rodent prey. Once they have a position fixed on the animal, they leap with all four feet off the ground and pounce on the prey. Their success rate of pounces is 50%. Most other cats’ success rate is only 10%.

In length, serval cats are about 2 to 3 ¼ feet. Their tails are ¾ to 1 ½ feet long. At the shoulder they stand 1 1/3 to 2 feet tall. Weight ranges from 17.5 to 40 pounds.

To call other servals, servals have a high-pitched cry. Like other cats, they snarl, growl and spit when angry. Contented servals purr.

1 to 3 kittens are born per litter, although sometimes as many as 5 are born. They weigh about 9 ounces each. Kittens are born with their eyes closed, but they open in 9 to 12 days. They reach independence at about 6-8 months, but will stay in their mother’s range until they reach sexual maturity at 18 to 24 months.

The main threats to servals are hyenas, leopards, dogs and man. Sometimes they are hunted for their pelts which are passed off as immature leopard pelts. GRAND KENYA SAFARI

Fun Serval Cat Facts

- Serval cats are diurnal or nocturnal depending on the habits of the prey where they live.

- The name serval is derived from a Portuguese word which means wolf-deer.

- The serval’s hind lets are longer than the front ones.

- A serval can leap in the air to catch birds.

By Carolyne Veke

The Wildebeest

Physical Characteristics

The Wildebeest is the star of the world's greatest animal spectacular.The annual migration from Serengeti to the Maasai Mar.More than a million of these strange looking creatures are joined by Zebra and Topi to march from Southern Serengeti to the Northernmost corner of the Mara.

Huge scores of these antelopes congregate on the East African savannas, a sight which few who have seen will forget.

Several races of wildebeest (also called gnu) exist. The species that forms the large herds of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem of Tanzania and Kenya is known as the western white-bearded wildebeest (C. t. mearnsi). The brindled or blue race occurs south of the Zambezi River; the eastern white-bearded race inhabits Kenya and Tanzania east of Gregory Rift.

The head of the wildebeest is large and box-like and both males and females have curving horns. The front end of the body is heavily built, the hindquarters slender and the legs spindly. The coat is gray and has a black mane and a beard which may be black or white.

By Carolyne Veke.

The Nzambani Rock

The Nzambani rock - Ivya ya Nzambani - is quite a popular scenic attraction in Kitui District. What makes this rock unique is the story behind it that has been passed along from one generation to another. The overnight "noises" and "imaginary women and children overnight activities" are some of the stories behind this Rock.

History

Folklore has it that if one goes round the rock 7 times, they would have their gender changed! Stories go of men and women who changed to the opposite sex after doing this.

It is not possible to authenticate these claims however the origin of this rock is told by two interesting stories: It is said that when the earliest missionaries arrrived in Kamba land, they were met by hostile opposition from the locals.

One such incidence is told of missionaries who while being pursued by Kamba worriors sought refuge inside the rock. Inside of the rock caves, they stumbled upon robes which they quickly wore to disguise themselves. When the warriors caught up with them after a long chase, they were shocked at what they saw. To them, the misionaries had transformed into women! thus the legend of Nzambani rock.

Another story is told of a beautiful Kamba maiden, Nzambani, who together with two other girls, went to fetch firewood. While doing so, she saw a beautiful round stone that was good for grinding tobacco snuff for her grandfather.

Nzambani took the stone and hid it from the other two. After they were done collecting firewood, Nzambani tried to remove the stone so she could carry it in a better way but the stone could not be removed. She then cried for help. The other girls rushed back to the village to call Nzambani's parents who came to her rescue but in vain.

In frustration, they left her and coming the following day, she had become a rock. Locals say that the rock continues to grow to-date.

KENYA NEW MILLION ANIMAL SAFARI AND CULTURE EXPLORATION


By carolyne Veke